Sunday, January 25, 2015

Finished Project: Granville Shirt

2015 Resolutions!  I've been sewing for a while, but have not been so good with time… Reading the many fantastic sewing blogs online I am always curious of how others can find the time to sew, work, manage a social life.. and write it all down.  But, a change of job means less time spent at work and a new apartment allows me a dedicated work space, so 2015 will be the year I finish all those projects and, not only complete them hems and all, but also make the effort to finish them to the point that I am pleased with my work.






My first sewing project finished, and super proud of, is Sewaholic's Granville shirt.  I do have a couple of shirt patterns, and as yet an unfinished craftsy course, but I saw Two Random Words blog post on it and decided this was the pattern I Had To Have.





Fitting:  I initially cut out a 14 and made a toile.. While it fitted around the bust, it was baggy around my waist and shoulders (a problem I always find) and hugely baggy under the bust.  I poured over the photos that Sophie-Lee had posted, hers seemed more fitted, so a recut was needed.  I found a fantastic FBA tutorial by Mary on Curvy Sewing Collective and recut my shoulders/neckline at an 8.. graded out to 10 for the bust and down to 14 at the hips.  The pattern looked a strange monster, particularly around the waist.. but the fit is great.  I lost all the bagginess under the bust and the waist and hips look more streamlined.  I still had to reduce my shoulder seams in by 1" further, but that was an easy fix.  The sleeve length is a little too long for me, but as I don't intend to wear the sleeves down, it's not a problem.

Materials & Notions:  I used a linen cotton mix from my fabric stash and I think the slight stiffness of the fabric suits the structured shape of the shirt well.  As I was too impatient to go out and source more interfacing I used what I had available, which might have just been on the too-thick side.  I didn't interface the cuffs, as I plan to always roll up the sleeves. 

Achievements:  I finished a shirt!  Haha.. Lots of firsts for me with this project - a collar with a collar stand.. a successful FBA… Plackets - which actually caused me a little confusion in the instructions, but doing a practice run first on scrap fabric helped a lot.. The triangular points are still not entirely symmetrical, but I'm super pleased with the overall look.



Likes:  I love the princess seam back - it's super flattering, and the length.. again very flattering. I don't often tuck clothes in, so it's great to have a shirt that also looks good loose.  I also love the pattern construction… I needed a good sit down with a cup of tea to figure out some parts (yoke & placket) but I put that down to overall impatience at not reading everything properly the first time round^^

Next time:  I will definitely use a less stiff interfacing… and I'm excited to try this in a lighter weight fabric too.. I left off the pockets as I'm not too sure about bust pockets on larger busts.

I love this shirt - I've worn it a few times to work, and as it has, on each time, successfully avoided being easily identified as homemade, it's a winner!